Before We Begin: Eight Sub-districts and One Town
A map
Before its abolition Zhabei District administered eight sub-districts and one town. Their geographical relation to one another went roughly like this:
North
┌────────────────────────────────────────────────┐
│ Pengpu Xincun │ Linfen Road │ ← furthest north: workers' villages
├─────────────────────┼─────────────────────────┤
│ Pengpu Town (west) │ Daning Road │ ← north-central: new town and industry
├─────────────────────┼─────────────────────────┤
│ Gonghexin Road │ ← centre
├─────────────────────┼─────────────────────────┤
│ Zhijiang West Road │ Baoshan Road │ ← south-central: sites of revolution
├─────────────────────┼─────────────────────────┤
│ Tianmu West Road │ Beizhan │ ← furthest south, on Suzhou Creek
└─────────────────────┴─────────────────────────┘
South (Suzhou Creek)
(Schematic, not to scale; Pengpu Town lies in the north-west and borders Baoshan District.)
Why take the sub-districts one by one
Because the sub-district — or town — is the right grain at which to understand a district.
- Talk about the "district" and it is too coarse: all you learn is that it was big, that it was poor, that it was abolished;
- Talk about the "streets" and it is too fine: all you see is one building and one tree;
- Talk about the sub-district and it is just right: each one has a character, a lineage and a fate of its own.
Take a few examples:
- Baoshan Road sub-district covers less than 1.7 km², yet it holds nine of Zhabei's twelve revolutionary heritage sites;
- Daning Road sub-district is the only sub-district in Zhabei to have completed the whole transformation "from industrial zone to modern neighbourhood";
- Beizhan sub-district takes its name from a railway station that no longer exists;
- Zhijiang West Road sub-district takes its name from the place where Japan accepted surrender.
None of this is visible until you get down to the level of the sub-district.
Getting to know them one by one
| # | Sub-district / town | In one line | Chapter |
|---|---|---|---|
| 1 | Tianmu West Road | Where the district government sits; the front of the railway station | Read |
| 2 | Beizhan | Site of the old North Station; Zhabei's most typical old quarter | Read |
| 3 | Baoshan Road | One street that holds half of modern China's cultural history | Read |
| 4 | Zhijiang West Road | From "Zhijiang Temple Road" to "Zhijiang": commemorating victory in the war | Read |
| 5 | Gonghexin Road | Its name spells out a republic | Read |
| 6 | Daning Road | The bet Zhabei got right | Read |
| 7 | Pengpu Xincun | Shanghai's largest workers' village | Read |
| 8 | Linfen Road | From the Guangzhao cemetery to a quiet neighbourhood | Read |
| 9 | Pengpu Town | A river, a temple, and a general from two thousand years ago | Read |
Three patterns that keep recurring
Read these nine pieces and you will notice a few patterns coming back again and again.
Pattern one: almost every sub-district was carved out of another. Gonghexin Road sub-district was carved out of Pengpu sub-district in 1978; Daning Road was carved out of Gonghexin Road in 1985; Linfen Road was carved out of Pengpu Xincun in 1988. When an area's population grows, a piece is sliced off to form a new sub-district — the natural scar of a city growing.
Pattern two: most of these sub-districts are products of the great merger of 1996. In 1996 Zhabei abolished eight sub-districts south of Zhongshan North Road and rebuilt four: Tianmu West Road, Beizhan, Baoshan Road and Zhijiang West Road. So in the history of these four today there is always a line reading "in 1996, sub-districts X and Y were abolished and merged to form the new sub-district Z".
Pattern three: the sub-districts almost never named themselves — they followed the roads. Tianmu West Road sub-district is named after Tianmu West Road; Baoshan Road sub-district after Baoshan Road; Gonghexin Road sub-district after Gonghexin Road … To understand a sub-district you first have to understand the road it takes its name from, and why that road is called that. (Fortunately Appendix 1 is devoted to exactly this.)
So let us start with the one furthest south, hard against Suzhou Creek.